I finally got round to removing the oil pump on my spare engine – maybe others’ll find the photos useful.
I fabricated a tool from sheet aluminium to hold the aux belt pulley while undoing the 36mm crankshaft nut.
With the nut off, I used a cheapo Laser 6″ puller to draw the pulley off the crankshaft. By the way, Haynes implies this is possible with the engine still in situ – I wouldn’t fancy it myself 🙂
Haynes tip of screwing in a self-tapper (having drilled a 2.5mm pilot hole) is still a good method of seal withdrawal but be careful not to nick the surfaces…
With the Torx bolts off, Haynes advises levering the oil pump out using the lugs and a screwdriver. I did try a quick bit of this, but with the sump already off I didn’t like the lack of leverage material behind one lug. I thought I’d be clever and re-use the puller again, but as you may see I snapped the lug at the bottom of the photo 🙁 Of course, it may have snapped with sufficient screwdeiver pressure anyway so I guess just be careful with this, and try a rubber mallet and penetrating oil to loosen the big O ring which was providing the friction.
Looks like it’s an MHS pump? Volvo part 127593.
The pump did come out, showing a fairly brittle, hardened gasket. Think this engine was claimed to have done 50k miles.
And here’s the exposed crankshaft.
Oil pump inspection
Here I’ve torn it down for inspection in case anyone else wants to compare notes on oil pump innards…
Two 4mm hex head bolts hold the pump together. I suggest using a decent socket on a wrench, I was finding Allen keys felt as if they’d round the bolt before loosening it. Be careful loosening them, there’s a sprung pin trying to escape inside!
Here’s the cover removed, showing the gears and pin-on-spring. For a drained engine, quite a lot of oil remains in the pump! Have some shop towel handy…
Here’s the cover – not so much to see here except the pin retaining sleeve.
Here’s the gears cleaned up a bit – some scratching evident on the faces. I have it on good authority (thanks Tim) this unit looks serviceable enough to re-use.
Here’s all the bits removed and cleaned.
There have been some posts about replacement oil pumps from Volvo being supplied with a plastic relief valve rather than the metal part found in this original pump – if replacing your oil pump you may wish to consider checking and/or replacing with the metal pin from an older type if it’s still serviceable.
Hopefully these shots show a ‘good’ older style pump for anyone interested in checking a rebuilt one.
HTH, Pete
The instructions in this tutorial will work in the following models / years:
– 1991,1992, 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996 and 1997 Volvo 850 Petrol engines
– 1997, 1998, 1999 and 2000 Volvo S70 Petrol engines
– 1997, 1998, 1999 and 2000 Volvo V70 Petrol engines
– 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004 and 2005 Volvo C70 Coupe and Convertible / Cabrio Petrol engines
View Comments (3)
Interesting article! I pulled down my pump for my 02' B5234T3 (came out of a 2002 S60 T5) and the pump for the most part is very similar. I didn't see any metal or plastic pins on the spring in my pump though and the round bearing looking part that can be seen in the top-left corner of the 4th pick in the tear down section was not there as well (if that's the front crank seal then my bad, it's there!).
Like your oil pump, there was some noticeable scuffing on the gears in mine. My gasket looked awfully similar to your own as well. For reference, the mileage on my motor is 114,000 KM.
- Stefan
hey man good post by any chance could u get me the torque sheet on a 99 Volvo s70 awd 2.4 turbo
Great info. I am in the process of removing the oil pump in my 03 T6. the pictures are very helpful.
Good job Ron.