Guide to replacing the left hand (gearbox side) engine mounting bracket.

Step 1

Remove the air filter assembly by unclipping the boost control valve, the jubilee clip holding the box to the air intake pipe and then undoing the two retaining screws. There is a third retaining point, but its just a peg in a rubber grommit, so the air filter box just needs pulling up.

Step 2

So this what we are going to replace. You will see it one through-bolt connecting the mounting to the bodywork, and three nuts that hold the mounting to the transmission box.

Step 3

Use a jack and block of wood to just support the weight of the transmission. No need to lift it at all, just don’t want it dropping when we undo the bolts.

Step 4

Start by undoing and removing the through bolt. You may find the transmission drops a bit when you get the bolt out but don’t panic.

Step 5

After squirting some WD40 on them, undo the three nuts holding the mount to the transmission. Unfortunately my socket wasn’t quite deep enough to get onto the nut of the middle bolt and then get the ratchet into it all the way. It’s a bit longer than the other two bolts for some reason. After a few turns it was fine and they aren’t on stupidly tight.

Step 6

Then just pull the mount up and away.

Step 7

The new mount. You should check the correct part number for your engine / year

Step 8

Now here is something interesting. When I dropped the new mount in the through-bolt hole no longer lined up with the bodywork bracket. Hey ho.. carry on, just jack up the transmission so that the hole does line up.

Old mount in place:

New mount in place:

Step 9

I put some copper grease on the through-bolt. Don’t know if it makes any difference, but figured why not.

Step 10

Instead of putting the three nuts on then doing the through-bolt, I chose to put the bolt through and just wind the nut on. Just gives you a bit more freedom in case it all needed wiggling about to get it on later. As it happened it all went on very easily.

Step 11

Get everything torqued up properly. Here are the torque values in Nm.

Step 12

Lower the jack and let the engine / tranmission settle.

Step 13

Refit the air filter box.

Step 14

Revel in your own glory because you’re all done!

 

The instructions in this tutorial will work in the following models / years:

– 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003 and 2004 Volvo S40
– 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003 and 2004 Volvo V40

    • Tony says:

      Here is what I did. For the lower two mounts (engine/transmission). Put volvo front tires on sturdy car ramps. Remove 10mm bolts around front shield , remove and sit aside.

      Support engine/trans with wood block and floor jack. Lift engine just enough to unweight the mounts – remove the two through bolts and should be able to slide them out by hand.

      Next remove the 2 front and 2 rear bolts – pay attention to the order of shims and rubber bushings. Frame part with mounts attached will drop down as one unit. Simply unbolt the old mounts and install the two new ones. Pay attention to the location of holes front/back in mount.

      Reinstalling: get a crow bar – I installed through bolts first and then frame. Install front frame bolts half way. Use another jack to raise the frame mount all the way up — and use the crow bar to align rear two bolts. Install rear bolts and bushings all the way.. Be careful to align correctly – you might need another person to pry engine around — and ensure bolts don’t crossthread into subframe from being misaligned. Finish installing front frame bolts. In all – 1 hour, simple job with and a little prying. Both front and rear mounts on mine were shattered at 75K. Also need to do the mount under airbox.

  1. alex tran says:

    How to replace the left hand engine mount on 1996 – 2004 Volvo S40 and V40

    My car has an additional bracket on the right hand side which prevented the bolt from backing off. How do I remove this bracket.

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